School of Drums
Don't miss the
goldmine of free drum set lessons w/video. Be sure to look into each of the lesson menus (above),
while you are here. It's a $2,000 drumming course, for free! SPECIAL NOTE: This very special e-book/lesson could easily
save you $150.00 to $900.00 on your next
drumset purchase . . . You will discover from this note that I
am fed up with the way some music stores tend
to gouge beginning students on new purchases.
I want to help you find the absolute BEST deal
on a drum set. The music dealers hate me for writing
this little piece! FIRST . . . understand this very important point . . . RULE #1: Nearly all of the drumsets on the market today are
of excellent to superior quality . . . even the low-cost generic
drums are an excellent value, if . . . the price is right. To discuss and compare the various brands will only
confuse you. We won't do that! They're all good. Some are
designed for lower budgets and others are designed for
those who want the best money can buy. The idea here is to
get the BEST price on what ever you decide to buy. You should buy any brand you like! Just don't
pay too much for anything you buy. Someone will always be willing to
offer 30% off (or better), if only we'll play our cards right. This may mean a savings of $180 on a $600 drumset, or possibly $600 (or more) on a hypothetical $2000 purchase. The trick to getting huge discounts is in
knowing how to encourage any dealer into giving-up
their large profits! We must make it more profitable
for the dealer to accept less money. Check out the
courses (products) in the right column and bottom of this page! You can get ALL of them free, with a simple donation
of $45.00 (or more). Most of those courses will show you how to put the $45 right back into your
own pocket, a thousand times. BUY ONE PRODUCT, GET ALL THE OTHERS FOR FREE! The tricks that follow should work in nearly
any country in the world. Though the currency
standards may be different . . . the strategies
you'll learn here . . . should work anywhere on
any drumset, from the cheapest to the most
expensive. How to encourage any dealer
into offering 30% (or more)
in discounts . . . NOTE . . . QUESTION: PART I, of 'The Formula' . . . VERY IMPORTANT . . . Anyway . . . Always compare apples to apples! Don't let the dealer include (or subtract) extras . . . as a way of confusing you.
Tell them EXACTLY what you want to buy. Check the catalog
prices and do the math beforehand . . . then negotiate until you find the best deal. Some dealers may actually be happy with only 10% profit, if we'll use these additional 'NEXT TIPS' . . . This 'could'
translate to about $900.00 in savings for you on a drumset that lists for $2,000.00. PARTS II, III, IV and V, of 'The Formula' . . . MORE MONEY-SAVING TIPS . . . BUT . . . If we are willing to pay (at least half) up-front . . . then wait two or three days for our shipment to arrive . . . it will mean that our dealer doesn't really have to invest his own money! This is a very big issue for the dealer and it also means we will get to call our specific 'color-choice' too! So . . . there's TWO good reasons for using this money-saving tactic . . . The dealer will only need to make a free and quick 1-800 phone-call to place our order! Then, he'll use our (up-front)
money to pay for the products! It's a fast, easy, no-risk, quick-profit-sale, for our dealer. Most dealers should see an advantage to doing it. How much profit . . . would you need . . . for making a 5-minute phone call? You bet. Wouldn't we ALL love to make $400 bucks for every phone call (order) we might place?
They should love it too . . . and they should always be more than willing to do it! Any dealer who isn't happy with $400 profit on a
$1,400.00 (5-minute) deal may be the wrong dealer. Here's another special tip . . . III: Those who deal in brand-name musical merchandise
are bound by law to never advertise those brand-names
below a certain price-level (set by the wholesaler). It's
considered low-balling . . . and it'll possibly cost
them their dealership if they do it. Many dealers may low-ball, but only in secret. Then again . . . since your order is coming from
outside their local area . . . they may become more inclined
to offer you a better deal. It means they aren't competing
against themselves. In other words . . . What we see advertised on their
web page . . . and what the dealers may actually sell for, may
often be two very amazingly different prices. E-mail can and will
often swing the advantage our way . . . especially if we are
communicating well, and using all the other tips I'm
giving you here . . . V: Also . . . the showroom drumset must be assembled,
setup and tuned by someone, for display on the showroom
floor. This means the owner will have to pay someone to
do that job. Up goes the price of that particular
drumset again! It's usually a 2-hour job. At $10 per hour,
it could mean another $20 to $30 savings, if we are willing
to accept our new drums 'in-the-box', then assemble and
tune them ourselves! Think about this too! See these two lessons . . . How to Assemble a drum set out of the UPS box and Tuning
Your Drums' . . . if this is a worrisome issue for you.
FINAL POINTS . . . Every 'general locality' should have at least
one dealer for any particular almost any brand-name we may be
seeking. If our local brand-name dealer . . . refuses to budge
from a high price . . . it may pay us to visit
a similar dealer within a close, but 'neighboring'
proximity. Sometimes it may be just across the city,
or in rural areas, a neighboring county. The Yellow Pages of any locality should help you select
specific brand-name dealers in that particular area. A short drive
to a neighboring city could help increase your negotiating
power and possibly help you save 10%, 15% or up to 40%. WHAT ABOUT THE WEB? Every dealer (worth their salt), in every locality
will probably have a web-site these days! So . . . who are the web-site dealers? They've all become potential dealers for you, now. The web
has brought them to your door! All you have to do is find them
on the web . . . then make contact and begin negotiations
via e-mail. It's as simple as doing a specific web-search for the
specific (exact) brand-name item(s) you may be seeking. HERE'S ANOTHER THOUGHT . . . When we buy out-of-state, via the web . . . we may
AVOID that tax, and it might mean an additional savings. HOWEVER; the typical web-page dealer may
legitimately need to consider adding DOUBLE-shipping to THEIR
prices! First the order must be shipped to them . . . then
they will ship it on to you. This negates your position
a little, in a way . . . WHY? Because the above fact 'may' wipe-out the 'saved'
taxes I mentioned in the other tip above . . . (The
EXTRA shipping costs may wipe-out the saved taxes.) All this tends to level the playing field.
It means neither the Internet dealer nor the brick and
mortar dealer has a major advantage. That's another big
PLUS for us. It means our decision will become a bit
easier to make when all factors have been
taken into account. The BEST price-quote is the
all important factor. That's the BOTTOM-LINE.
You'll save a bundle! :>)
USED DRUMS may be your BEST option. It may even be worthwhile for you to make a trip the nearest large city to you, in search of the best used bargains. The trick is finding just the right drumset at just the right price. I hope to help you do that, here . . . GENERIC OR BRAND NAME? I'm very strong on the 'generic' entry-level kits
for all BEGINNING students of drums. (Would you buy a Cadillac,
to teach a kid to drive?) After all, that's exactly why those
'generic' low cost drumsets are on the market! They're marketed
specifically to students on a budget. So IF you are a beginner, and IF you aren't expecting
to be on-stage playing for money within the next year or two,
I recommend the lower-priced drums. If I can help you get those drums at the best possible
price, I'll feel like I've done you a real service. THEN AGAIN . . . if I could help you find an EXPENSIVE
brand name kit at a greatly reduced price . . . that would
be even better! Part of these decisions will depend on how much you can
currently afford to spend. FINDING THE 'USED' BARGAINS . . . Read the want-ad section of every newspaper and suburban shopping guide in your immediate area. Timing is a major factor. This search may require some
persistence and patience on your part. The BEST times to
find the bargains are February through August, but don't let that
discourage you. There are bargains to be found, year-round, if
you'll read enough want-ads. Here's why . . . If the drums did not sell when originally
advertised, the seller may have become discouraged and dropped
the ad after a only a few insertions. That seller may still
have the drumset! This is where the REAL bargains are
found. You will be in a powerful leverage position.
This type of seller will be very anxious to get the drumset out
of his house and may accept any reasonable offer you will submit. Why? Your anxious seller wants to go out and buy some
other toy to give or throw out, next Spring. If all that fails to produce results . . . ONE MORE TRICK! (Advertise!) What's next? ADVERTISE! Yep! You heard me right. Run a small
inexpensive ad in your own suburban-shopper or newspaper. Place
the ad in the 'Wanted' section or the 'Used Musical Instruments'
section of your local paper(s). Keep your ad simple and to the point. Announce in your ad that you are in the market
for a used drumset and will pay $XXX.XX for the best
deal you can find. Buy an answering machine or hire a secretary.
You may need some help. I will bet my money on this one tip. It usually works. :>) KNOWING A BARGAIN, WHEN YOU SEE IT. This is a key issue . . . First, remember that there are literally hundreds
of brands out there and each brand will usually come
in varied levels of quality. There are basically two kinds of drums: * BRAND NAMES * . . . OFF-BRAND . . . The generic list is almost endless. If you haven't
heard the name before; or seen it advertised in the
various media, it's probably a generic name. SPECIAL NOTE: (Generic is generic!) The parts for nearly all the generic, low cost, entry-level
drums are (in most cases) made in Taiwan, China or Jspan, then shipped
around the world, where the various jobbers and wholesalers
assemble them for shipping to dealers. They add their own names
and logos. They're essentially all the same drums . . . with
a hundred different names. I'm told by good sources that the low-end, (entry level)
'Pearl Export' and 'Pearl Forum' kits are also made in those
same factories. The only major difference is the 'Pearl'
logo stamped into the metal. BE A SHREWD BUYER. If you are buying used drums, follow these
simple guidelines: GOOD LUCK!
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the current time-signature system. Seven short mesmerizing and easy-to-follow lessons will lead you quickly and easily towards
(musical-time) guru status. You will learn to visualize (read, write or feel) the existence This should lead
directly to the e-book. This very informative little booklet will amaze you
with hundreds of valuable tips and insider secrets! HOW TO: Purchase old/used drumsets for pennies and resell them for decent
profits.
Free Lesson Menus
BUYERS GUIDE FOR DRUMMERS
BUYER'S GUIDE: DRUMSET PURCHASING TIPS
I do not sell drums. This info is designed to help aspiring drum students make informed drumset purchase decisions.
ANY brand of drum set will represent great deal
if the price is great. PRICE IS THE MAIN ISSUE
We push them into a price-war, against their
competition and/or we can use the tricks coming-up (below) to soften
them up enough to give us a serious break on the price.
Plus, you'll receive a downloadable copy of this entire course that may easily be burned to a
CD.
It's much easier to do, than you may think! My
'secret formula' is explained in minute-detail below . . .
Read this valuable message VERY carefully!
Keep this crucial fact in mind!
How much profit is a fair profit for the dealer?
You, can decide and control this, once you know how
to do it! That's the GOOD news!
Cymbals, thrones and other drumset accessories
are also a very big part of our negotiating process!
We must negotiate everything equally (the exact same drumset),
with each of the various dealers, until we find the
one dealer who'll 'settle' for the least profit on our
(specific drumset) order.
II. When we SEE a drumset on the dealers showroom
floor . . . it means the dealer has his money invested
in that particular drumset. That owner will be wanting all the profit
they can make, off that investment . . . It won't represent
the best potential deal for us . . .
Will $100 to $400 profit on our hypothetical $2000 drumset seem to be enough profit?
(Leave skid-marks as you get out of there . . . FAST!)
E-mail may sometimes become a special way to offer
online dealers the sort of 'secrecy' that'll nudge them
even lower than the prices they are allowed to
advertise! Many may advertise a 30% discount, but
almost none will admit to discounts lower than that,
(publicly).
Floor salesmen must be paid, (usually with commissions)! If we deal directly with the
store owner . . . it can mean even larger savings, because
the owner won't be paying-out commissions to the salesman.
This tip can often help us keep an additional 10% to 20%
of the money in our pocket. Sometimes, the very small one-man-shop (online or offline),
may be the very best place to buy, for the same reason if the dealer is also the
salesman.
Students need to learn how to assemble and tune their own
drumset anyway . . . don't they? Setting-up, tearing down and tuning
are all a part of being a drummer, folks. ;>)
Brand-name dealerships are usually issued by
manufacturers according to locality. They'll only
allow a limited number of authorized-dealers for
their brand-names in any given local area.
The web-site dealers are dealers of the same brand-name
products you are seeking . . . but they're music stores
operating outside of your local neighborhood area.
They are the 'little local music-stores',
scattered all over the U.S. and rest of the World.
When we buy locally (here in the U.S.) . . .
we'll often end up paying a state-sales-tax.
SHOULD YOU BUY USED DRUMS?
With a little luck, the drum kit you need, may be in your neighbors broom closet, or it could be just across town, taking up precious space in someone's garage.
Should you buy low-cost 'generic' drums or should
you go for an expensive brand name? "Any drum set is better than no drum set.
Price is the real issue. What can you afford?"
Look through last months (old) want-ads first. Look for
individual ads touting 'Drums For Sale'.
Remember this. The seller is in need of extra cash RIGHT
NOW! Aren't we all?
Keep the faith!
Well . . . I'll assume you have tried all the above
tips and found nothing!
Rats! You must have the luck of the Irish!
How will you know when a bargain is really a bargain?
You'll need to know what qualities to look for . . .
then how to equate the value.
The brand names are/were: Ludwig, Rogers, Premier,
Pearl, Yamaha, Tama, DW, Mapex, Sonar and a few others.
(Some of these brands have disappeared in recent years,
but you'll still find them as you look for used drums.)
Of course, the brand names are worth more money.
The Generic brands are: Sunlite, Adam, TKO, Thor,
Percussion Plus, Pacific, Dixon, Hammer, Argent and many,
many others.
Most of these entry-level 'generic' drum PARTS are
manufactured by ONE company in Taiwan, and according to
the word on the street, that company is a subsidiary of Pearl.
The 'Pearl' logo is worth, and may cost you
approximately $100 extra dollars (or more).
HERE IS HOW.
Copyright
Bill Powelson 1965-1994-2008-2014 @ all rights reserved.
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